Swiss watch manufacturer MB&F have recently produced an update to their Horological Machine No. 4 (HM4) series, dubbed the HM4 Final Edition. This wristwatch doesn’t exactly look like a watch at first; it more resembles something James Bond would wear to perform some incredible stunt. The Final Edition is crafted out of black PVD-coated high-tech titanium and a sapphire center, which requires an astounding amount of work, more than 185 hours of machining and polishing to create. This is the only way for the design engineers to bring a solid block of opaque crystal to such extraordinary visual complexity.
The look for this timepiece was inspired by three distinguished aircrafts of the golden age of aviation, the F-117 Nighthawk jet, the B-2 Spirit and the SR-71 Blackbird.
MB&F pays homage to these planes through the sharp and very bold design to close out their HM4 series. The Final Edition’s most distinguishing feature is the two turbine-like pods (or perhaps stylized mini jet engines), one for the time and one for the power reserve indicators. These pods are connected to the power reserve through unique vertical gear trains specially manufactured by MB&F. The Final Edition boasts a 311-piece automatic movement, which further contains dual configured mainspring barrels, which drive vertical gear trains for each display pod. The squared-off hoods lean over each pod to give the Final Edition a completely unique look and set it apart from the other HM4s MB&F has produced. Furthermore, each of the 311 components, down to the screws, were developed specifically for the HM4 Final Edition.
Just like the jet it was designed after, the aesthetic features of the HM4 Final Edition are based on square angular shapes, top of the line titanium and matte black finished surfaces. The architectural base of the HM4 Final Edition is modeled after the previous MB&F watch called the HM4 Thunderbolt. With a 72-hour power reserve this watch will be extremely limited, with only eight units being produced. Each of these eight wonders are being priced at $230,000, and can only be found in five boutiques worldwide: MB&F’s M.A.D. Gallery in Geneva, Chronometryx in Gstaad, The Hour Glass in Singapore, Chronopassion in Paris and Westime in Los Angeles. So getting your hands on a Final Edition may be something like a world-class scavenger hunt, as well as a race against time as many watch enthusiasts may be after this eccentric yet bold MB&F watch.
Written by Amani Liggett
When asked about his journey in creating his company, Jeff Kuo, founder of XETUM explains that he began designing watches because he was a watch enthusiast who could not find a watch with the combination of aesthetics, sizing, movements, and pricing that he was looking for. After working on different designs and talking with numerous people, he was able to come up with something that not only himself, but many others could identify with and enjoy. The brand offers unique watches.
Xetum is the California (San Francisco specifically) based brand that is the first internet only watch brand. The watches are chic and elegant and use simple geometric shapes and lines to create a clean look. The brand has two watch series, including the Tyndall and Stinson. The models feature clean design and aesthetics and are very functional. One of the most recognizable feature of this brand is the lugless cases of the watches. Other features of the Tyndall and Stinson models include 40 millimeters diameter steel cases, clear numerals, 24 hour indexes, simple and straight sword hands, and unique oversized hex bolt crowns. In addition, these watches are Swiss made and feature ETA movements.
Now, Xetum has released its first Tyndall PVD watch. This was has a matte black PVD lugless steel case that is 40 millimeters in diameter. The back is a display see through case back that allows one to view the engraved black rotor. Inside this case is an ETA 2895-2 elabore grade 27 jewel automatic that powers this watch. The movment has several functions, including hour, minutes, and small seconds. Complementing the black case is a matte black dial that has similar layout as the previous watch of the Tyndall collection. The classic military elements are viisble and the added seconds register and 24-index are quite an attractive additional features on the watch.
California designed, Swiss made
Case: Black matte PVD finish
- 40 millimeters x 11 millimeters stainless steel
Mineral display back
AR-coated sapphire front crystal
Water resistant up to 100 meters
Black instrument-style dial
Subdial seconds indicator and 24 hour markings
Movement: ETA Swiss automatic movement (2895-2), elaboree-grade, with engraved black rotor, 27 jewels
Power reserve of up to 42 hours
Naturally tanned leather strap with Italian cork lining and all black stitching
Black PVD buckle and stainless steel butterfly clasp with engraved Xetum logo
Currently priced at $1495.
The Sarpaneva Korona K0 Wuoksi watch has a somewhat unusual tale behind its conception; the watch is timepiece is inspired by an old Finnish legend about a father’s unwavering love towards his daughters.
The tale goes that a Nakki, an underwater monster, stole a village blacksmith’s beautiful daughters and kept them locked away in an underwater mansion. The smith, as cunning as he was loving, created a waterproof time iron to help him dive down to rescue his girls. He also created a machine to track the phases of the moon so that he could tell when the tide was weakest and he would have the best chance to rescue his daughters.
At first, it may seem like an odd connection for a luxury watch; a rural village smithy of legend and one of the most well-known luxury brands in the world, but when you think about the extreme lengths that the father went through for his legacy—his daughters—it bears a striking resemblance to the Sarpaneva dedication to their own creations.
Sarpaneva’s latest creation would have been a boon to the old smithy of lore; the automatic movement runs off of a modified Soprod caliber A10, giving it a power reserve of 42 hours. With a steel case, specially designed screw-down crown, and diving bezel firmly in place, the watch is waterproof up to 300 meters, the old smithy could take on a handful of Nakki.
The time piece is further suited for underwater adventures with the Superluminova coating on the watch hands and indices. Your comfort is assured with a choice of alligator, frog skin, or rubber straps.
A sliding disc of the night sky slides to reveal the faces of the moon (available in gold, bronze, silver, or copper)—a complication that Sarpaneva introduced just this year in their KO Dive Watch. Here, it is made more mysterious by the whimsical dial face, revealing the skeleton winding rotor behind the grille. The moon appears to peer out at its wearer—a very nice touch on the piece!
Sarpaneva’s signature moon phase indicator probably won’t help the modern day man fend off any monsters, but it certainly stands out in the watch world as one of the most unique complications from the brand.
This is a glorious watch that blends together legend and true horological knowhow with ease. Using a father that could teach Liam Neeson’s Taken character a few tricks as inspiration, this watch truly lives up to the double meaning behind “Wuoksi:” meaning either “high tide” or “for the sake of something,” this irresistible moon phase watch shows the results what extreme love and dedication can create.
Swiss luxury watchmaker Cecil Purnell often refers to itself as a micro-manufacturer who specializes exclusively in tourbillons. They believe that the tourbillon movement is the standard in watch-making know-how. Their concentration in this feature helps ensure only the highest levels of craftsmanship as well as the fact that Cecil Purnell releases 50 pieces per year.
The fledgling Swiss watch manufacturer prides itself in their commitment to maintaining the values of Haute Horlogerie. In the world of luxury watches, Cecil Purnell is still a fledgling brand however they are resolute in making a name for themselves.
The Cecil Purnell La Grande Date Tourbillon Watch is the latest release from the elusive Swiss watchmaker. The watch itself is very striking in appearance. It features a very grand dial which is available in white or pink gold case with matching screws on the case back. However, what might be the most remarkable feature of the La Grande Date is the missing dial.
This feature is not only unique to look at but it allows one to take a peek into the hand wound movement which is equipped with a tourbillon CP 3988 calibre with 19 jewels pulsating at 21,600 vibrations per hour and has a substantial 60-hour power reserve. The timepiece is also furnished with anti-glare double sapphire crystals with affixed hour indicators with suspended tips and is water resistant to 50 meters. The watch strap comes in black leather with a corresponding 18 karat white or pink gold buckle.
The watch is very beautiful; it combines an overall upscale design with edgy features such as the suspended spiky tips and totally transparent dial. There are many impressive features of this watch that are commendable and due to the fact that Cecil Purnell takes painstaking measures to ensure quality, you know that you are getting a solid timepiece. However the six figure price tag for such a small brand name in the world of watches will likely deter most watch collectors and admirers from buying this watch.
I appreciate all the time and detail that went into making this timepiece and it is unfortunate that Cecil Purnell has not been able to achieve the notoriety of some its competitors. However, personally, I am unsure whether this watch will bring the brand the recognition it deserves.
The La Grande Tourbillon also comes in a sportier version called the Pit Lane V12 for those who prefer something less formal.
Some watch brands are so based in their history that they miss out on the latest evolutions of modern horology. However, at TechnoMarine where “Innovation is the rule,” innovation isn’t just an aspiration, it’s a given. Don’t believe me? Just check out the TechonoMarine Steel Evolution Watch, the brand’s latest design that carries the strength of one of the world’s most versatile metals and the timelessness of the ocean itself.
The timepiece is the latest in a whole host of pieces that feature strong materials with softer design elements. In the case of the Steel Evolution, the watch juxtaposes the strong steel with a softly distressed look inspired by churning waves.
This effect is achieved through the stonewashed case, featuring an antique stainless steel look with pink gold accents on the unidirectional bezel, mirroring the brushed pink gold dial face with black accents. The distressed vintage leather strap with contrast stitching plays off of the pink gold beautifully, adding a glow to the piece.
Pink gold not to your taste? Try the acid washed stainless steel case with silicone strap and red stitching. This is a less formal version of the watch, but it still maintains a nice balance of solid elements against an artistically well-worn look.
TechnoMarine watches identify with one of four specific environments; in this case the timepiece focuses on the beach (the others, if you’re curious, include “navigation,” “the city,” and “dip”—whatever that means).
The brushed metal cases in both versions is supposedly influenced by the gentle erosion of ocean waves, and the pink gold version even manages to capture the colors of a sunset in a peaceful cove. Many diving watches include nautical elements, but few realize the aesthetic as subtly and as elegantly as TechonMarine’s Steel Evolution.
The watch isn’t just nice to look at, but an excellent investment as a diving watch. Water resistant up to 20 atm—200 m or 660 ft depending on where you call home—the watch is one of the most cost-effective diving watches on the market. The chronograph is powered by a Swiss 5040D quartz movement is reliable, particularly for those involved in high-impact adventures.
The stone-washed element of the TechnoMarine Steel Evolution is a new take on an old favorite—the diving chronograph. The watch is cleanly designed and has just enough character to lend the timepiece a subtle shine.