3rd Annual Madison Avenue Watch Week

Baselworld and SIHH are two of world’s greatest horological shows. Watchmakers from all over the world participate in both of these events, making them a watch enthusiasts dream. Both take place in Switzerland, however, making it a bit difficult for many to enjoy the stunning pieces and events at these horological shows.

 

But not all horological shows require a plane ticket to Switzerland. This past week, from April 8th to April 13th, the third annual Madison Avenue Watch Week took place in New York City. Featuring a myriad of exhibitions and product previews from luxury watch designers, Madison Avenue Watch Week was a huge hit.

 

Boutiques between 57th and 86th streets opened their doors to participate in the event. Madison Avenue Watch Week featured a broad range of price points and styles; from vintage timepieces to luxury pieces.

 

This years events included a Girard-Perregaux watchmaking demonstration, a Breguet watch viewing, a private viewing of Hublot’s 2013 collection, and an F.P. Journe sneak preview.

 

Participants this year included Antiquorum, Asprey, Blancpain, Breguet, Biccellati, Chopard, David Yurman, De Grisogono, F.P. Journe, Fabergé, George Jensen, Girard-Perregaux, Graff Diamonds, Hublot, Montblanc, Porsche Design, and Vacheron Constantin.

 

To learn more about Madison Avenue Watch Week, visit www.madisonavenuewatchweek.com.

Breva Genie 01 – Tell Weather As Well As Time

Written by: K. Amanuel

Vincent Dupontreué recently introduced his new independent watch brand called “Breva.” The brand’s first watch is the Genie 01, which is part watch and part barometer-altimeter. This is the first wristwatch that features an altimeter and barometer for forecasting the weather. The watch was constructed by Jean-Francois Mojon of Chronode, and he has constructed an unusual and complicated but interesting watch.
The Breva Genie 01 comes in a 44.7 mm wide by 15.6 mm high case that is made of white or pink gold. Both models are limited to 55 pieces. The fully mechanical movement that powers this watch can be seen through the sapphire crystal display back. A circular scale is engraved around the perimeter of the case-back and provides correlation between altitude and air pressure. Three crowns on the case allow setting of the movement. The crown at the 2 o’clock on the top right has a knurled exterior ring that adjust the barometric pressure scale and the inner pusher adjusts the altitude indication. The crown at the 9 o’clock on the left adjusts the time and winds the watch. The crown located at the 4 o’clock has a knurled locking ring that rotates to lock or unlock an air valve. Above the crown is a red indicator on the dial that reads “Sealed” when valve is unlocked and air is allowed in.
The dial of the Breva Genie 01 is quite busy but has easily readable indicators for all its functions. The hours and minutes are shown on a semi-transparent sapphire subdial that is located at the 8 o’clock position. The small seconds are displayed at the 12 o’clock. A 65-hour power reserve indicator at the 4 o’clock position features an engraved compass rosse in the cap of the mainspring barrel, which rotates when winding the movement. It allows one to tell remaining power in the mainspring of the fully mechanical movement.
Aside from telling the time, the dial also allows wearer to tell altitude and forecast the weather. Between the 5 o’clock and 6 o’clock is an anaerobic capsule that measures air pressure. Air pressure inside the movement needs to be equalized with outside air using the valve at 4 o’clock before barometer can be used. The barometer’s weather forecast is displayed on a semi-transparent subdial at the 2 o’clock position.
As mentioned above, the Breva Genie 01 comes in two models: white gold and 4N pink gold. The white gold is priced at CHF 150,000 and the pink gold for CHF 145,000.

Swiss Watchmaker Antoine Martin Introduces its Slow Runner Watch

Written by Chaz Nash

 

Swiss watchmaker Antoine Martin has designed a watch with a 24mm balance that beats at 1 Hz – affectionately named Antoine Martin Slow Runner, and as the name suggests speed and accuracy have been completely abandoned in this aesthetically beautiful mechanical watch.

Martin Braun, founder of Antoine Martin has captured the attention of the horology community with his Antoine Martin Slow Runner watch, which exhibits an immense 24mm balance wheel that beats at an astoundingly slow 1Hz – that’s one beat per second; which leaves much to be desired in the realm of time accuracy by some watch manufacturers time measuring standards.

Braun’s horological design approach for Slow Runner was to visually capitalize upon the corporeal aesthetics associated with manufacturing a mechanical watch and establish a new found appreciation for an artistic slow running mechanical timepiece for a distinguished collector. The innovative artistic appeal of Slow Runner is evident through its sapphire crystal case-back which provides a view to a mechanical masterpiece of slow running time perfection.

Slow Runner’s sapphire crystal case-back reveals its immense 24mm balance wheel and beautiful blue silicon hairspring which gently oscillates at 7,200 beats per hour.  Antoine Martin manufacture’s choice of a silicon hairspring adds to the longevity of the watch’s movement, as silicon is resistant to deformities caused by temperature or magnetism, and makes it resistant to shocks as well.

Antoine Martin Slow Runner is available in three case styles, two of which are stainless steel one with a silver dial and an anthracite dial, and the third option in rose gold with a silver dial. The 42mm by 6mm diameter case houses Antoine Martin’s exclusive manufactured AM36.001 manually wound movement which as mentioned earlier beat at 1 Hz per second for a total of 7,200 beat per hour.

 

Antoine Martin Slow Runner seconds sub-dial slightly eclipses the hour dial which has an elaborate embossed or guilloche effect which exhibits Antoine Martin brand name and logo. The hour dial also displays Roman numerals at 2, 4, 10 and 12 o’clock with blue hour, second and indicator hands, and a date aperture window at 3 o’clock. Located at 10 o’clock is the power reserve indicator which also has a guilloche effect. The crown is engraved with Antoine Martin’s signature logo with the stainless steel versions being adorned with a black alligator leather straps, and the rose gold version being adorned with a brown alligator leather strap.

Antoine Martin spared no expense or affects in the design of the Slow Runner; it is undoubtedly a slow running watch that masterfully exhibits the luxurious aesthetics of a mechanical watch. It definitely fulfills the brand’s values: Innovation, Uniqueness and the Spirit of the Times.

IWC Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance

IWC unveiled a new timepiece to mark its cooperation with the Mercedes Amgpetronas Formula One Team. This watch, selected by NBA star Carmelo Anthony, is the IWC Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance. This model will be available in limited edition of only 100 pieces.

The Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance comes in a carbon case that measures 46 millimeters in diameter. The middle part of the case is held together by screws and is manufactured using fibre matting, which is soaked in epoxy resin and shaped in a desired form before being heated at high temperature and pressure. This is the same technique used in monocoque of a racing car. To keep with the theme of motor-sports, IWC designers have used ceramic for the screw heads, the crown and crown protection. The screws and case-back ring are made of titanium. The watch comes with a black rubber strap with stamped calfskin inlay and titanium pin buckle. The stitches on the strap are either yellow or red nylon reminiscent of the stripes on the walls of the soft slick tires.

Inside the watch is the heart of the watch, which is the Calibre 80110 mechanical movement. This IWC-manufactured 80110-calibre movement has 44 hour power reserve and integrated shock-absorption system. The shock-absorption system allows the wearer to be in situations of extreme vibrations without affecting the watch.

The dial of this Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance is also made of carbon fiber. While carbon is only one-fifth the weight of steel, it does not have as much resistance to scratching. The black dial features under and over technique to create webbed design pattern and gives an authentic Formula One look. The dial has an impressive three-dimension look. A date window is visible at the 3 o’clock position. The hours and minutes markers as well as the hour and minute hands are luminescent and easy to read.

Technical Specifics of IWC Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance

  • Mechanical movement – Calibre 80110
  • Pellaton automatic winding
  • 44-hour power reserve when fully wound
  • Jewels – 28
  • Integrated shock-absorption system
  • Date display with crown-activated rapid advance
  • Central hacking seconds
  • Screw-in crown
  • Sapphire glass, flat, antireflective coating on both sides
  • See-through sapphire-glass back
  • Water-resistant 12 bar
  • Case height 14.5 mm
  • Case Diameter 46 mm
  • Bracelet Material – black rubber strap with stamped calfskin inlay
  • Limited edition of 100 watches each, once with yellow and once with red nylon threads
  • Price – $26,400

Introducing Girard-Perregaux’s Exclusive DLC Titanium Bi-Axial Tourbillon

The Girard-Perregaux, known for its traditional watchmaking and a history that spans over a century, has presented quite a unique and eccentric watch with this Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Bi-Axial Ti-DLC watch. As the name suggests, this timepiece features a tourbillon that rotates around two axis. The Tourbillon Bi-Axial Ti-DLC comes in a case that measures 45 millimeters in diameter and 18.5 millimeters in height. The case is made of titanium that is treated with Diamond Like Carbon (DLC). This unconventional looking case, which combines a black DLC and main plate coating with lugs and bezel with brushed finish, houses a movement with the highest of quality.

 

Just wow

The titanium case houses the caliber GP E0201 that was developed in-house Girard-Perregaux’s workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds. This manually wound mechanical movement runs at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz) and has 28 jewels. The tourbillon consists of 113 parts and weighs about a slight 0.80 grams. This tourbillon combines tow concentric cages, which are the internal and external cages. Each cage makes a full rotation in its own time. The internal cage, which bears a balance wheel, balance spring, and escapement, rotates in an external cage and this cage completes a full turn on its axis in one minute and fifteen seconds. The balance wheel with balance spring rotates inside the internal cage in 45 seconds. One full revolution is achieved in three minutes and forty-five seconds. What is cool about this watch is the movement of the tourbillon’s two cages, balance wheel and escapement on multiple axises can all be viewed and appreciated by looking at the face of the watch.

Technical Specifications of Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Bi-Axial

 

Case

  • Titanium case with DLC coating
  • Diameter: 45 mm
  • Height: 18.50 mm
  • Sapphire crystal
  • Sapphire case-back secured by 6 screws
  • Water resistance of up to 30 meters

Movement

  • Girard-Perregaux GPE0201, mechanical with manual winding
  • Dimensions: 15 1/3 lignes (34 millimeters fitting diameter)
  • Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
  • Tourbillon: 113 components, 0.80 grams, one complete revolution in 3 minutes and 45 seconds
  • Variable inertia balance fitted with gold adjustment screws
  • Balance spring – Phillips curve; Geneva Stud
  • 28 Jewels
  • 18k gold barrel bridges and central bridge
  • Power reserve – 72 hours, two coaxial barrels
  • Functions – Bi-axial Tourbillon, hour, minute

    Limited edition – 8 pieces

    Alligator strap with folding buckle