Chanel’s War Against Tourneau & Cartier – In Plain English

 

It’s been over a month since Chanel filed a suit against Tourneau and Cartier. The timeline is hazy, so we thought we would present, “In Plain English,” just how the scandal unraveled…

 

 

Timeline of  Chanel vs Tourneau & Cartier

  • June 2011: Tourneau starts selling Chanel watches at two NYC stores.
  • July 2013: Tourneau opens a Chanel boutique at its East 57th Street Location (AKA “TimeMachine”)
  • August 2013: Cartier CEO Stanislas Chauveau De Quercize tours the TmeMachine and threatens to stop supplying Tourneau with watches unless Tourneau closes the Chanel Boutique at its TimeMachine location.
  • September 2013: Tourneau tells Chanel that it is terminating its agreement to build the boutique.
  • December 2013: The boutique is dismantled and is not used by Tourneau. Instead, it is used to house Christmas trees and a reindeer.
  • December 13 2013:  Chanel files a suit against Tourneau and Cartier in New York State Supreme Court, seeking over $15 million in damages.

Quotable Quotes

Plus, here are the great lines that should not go unnoticed:

“…tear down the Chanel boutique or lose the business of Cartier.”

-Cartier Officials to Tourneau Guys, August 2013

“The former location of the Chanel boutique currently stands empty of any commercial use by Tourneau, and is occupied only by two large Christmas trees and a small model of a reindeer”

-Chanel in December 2013 Filing against Tourneau & Cartier

“…carrying Cartier brands was essential to maintaining its [Tourneau’s] self-described status as an ‘unrivaled presence in the luxury watch retail market…’”

-Chanel in December 2013 Filing against Tourneau & Cartier

“[If] this boutique was built a year ago, everything would be fine and we wouldn’t have this issue. Today, the market is so weak, Asia is plunging and many brands become more difficult…”

-Tourneau’s COO Adam Sek in an email to Chanel in September, 2013

Captured on Camera

In a nutshell, this is what transpired. The first photo is the Before (Chanel’s Boutique at Tourneau’s TimeMachine Location) and the photo beneath that is the After…

More info on the Brands Involved

Chanel

Tourneau

Cartier 

Cartier Baignoire Mini Watch WB520028

 

 

Written by: Krystal Esquillo

A mixture of gleaming diamonds and soft satin, the Cartier Baignoire Mini Watch WB520028 looks like it’s fit for a princess. In fact, this watch’s innovative, elegant design is a reflection of its royal beginnings. It encompasses feminine qualities and has proven to be an admired accessory among women since the early 20th century.

The Cartier brand has long been a presence in royal circles– a fact which is evident in the Baignoire’s design. Its elegant aesthetic draws from a diamond and onyx piece that Louis Cartier designed for Grand Duchess Pavlovna in the early 1900s. The eye-catching oval-dialed creation was named “baignoire,” the French word for the fixture it resembles: bathtub.

Round diamonds adorn the 18-carat pink gold bezel, while another lustrous diamond is set in the 12-sided crown. The identifiable oval case is elegantly aligned with the fabric, creating a sleeker, slimmer design ideal for a small wrist. The black Roman numerals are slightly altered to better contour the dial’s oval shape. A simple Cartier logo and signature blued-steel hands are the only other embellishments on the classic sunray-silver dial.

At only 25 millimeters in diameter, the Cartier Baignoire Mini Watch fittingly rests on a smaller wrist. The soft fabric strap and 18-carat pink gold ardillon buckle secure the timepiece comfortably and add to the overall look of refinement.

 

 

 

Specifications
– 25.30 mm x 20.795 mm, 7.73 mm thick
– 18-carat pink gold case
– Silvered dial with sunray effect
– Fabric strap
– 18-carat pink gold ardillon buckle
– Diamond-set, twelve-sided crown
– Sapphire crystal
– Quartz movement caliber 059
– Water resistant to 30 meters

Pros
This is an iconic timepiece from a respected, sophisticated brand. Of all Cartier collections, the Baignoire most epitomizes classic feminine beauty. The simple, minimalist design makes it timeless, while the diamond accents highlight the grace and natural beauty of a woman. Its enduring style makes it appropriate for all ages and all occasions.

Cons
Women come in all shapes and sizes, and wrist size will of course vary. This watch’s delicate design may not fit well on wider wrists and may look too small, especially considering that it is the smallest model in the collection. The good news: Cartier does have larger watches in the Baignoire collection. While they vary in design, all maintain the sleek, elongated curves of the imaginative oval dial.

This watch became an instant classic for good reason. Simply put, it is perfectly designed for a woman, both reflecting and complimenting her beauty. The Cartier Baignoire Mini Watch WB520028 is an exquisite accessory that has upheld its timeless sophistication across the generations.

 

 

 

Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Watch W1556218

Written by: Krystal Esquillo

The Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Watch W1556218 blends brilliant technology with uncomplicated design, combining the 9422 MC perpetual calendar movement with the traditional style of the Rotonde de Cartier collection.

In 2010, Cartier debuted the 9422 MC movement with the Tortue collection, marking the brand’s first self-winding perpetual calendar. Now, the Rotonde de Cartier collection presents the same excellent engineering in a more classic, yet still creative, design.

The timepieces in this collection are noted for their large size and masculine design. Measuring 40.5 mm in diameter and 13 mm thick, the Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Watch lives up to the collection’s reputation. An 18-carat white (or pink) gold case houses a white, galvanized guilloche dial—the intricate craftsmanship is evident in each crest and trough of the ornamental dial.

Surrounding the dial are large Arabic numerals indicating the date, while the hour markers are clearly and beautifully set apart with bold Roman numerals. The month and leap year counter is placed at the 12 o’clock position, while the retrograde hand at 6 o’clock indicates the day of the week. Iconic Cartier blue highlights every hand, coordinating nicely with the sapphire cabochon set in the beaded crown. Sapphire protects both the crystal and case back, and an 18-carat, double adjustable deployant buckle secures the black alligator-skin strap.

Specifications
– 40.5 mm in diameter, 13 mm thickness
– 18-carat white gold case
– White dial made of galvanized guilloche
– Alligator-skin strap
– 18-carat white gold deployant buckle (double adjustable)
– Sapphire cabochon set in a beaded 18-carat white gold crown
– Sapphire crystal and case back
– Automatic mechanical movement caliber 9422 MC
– Water resistant to 30 meters
– Movement comprised of 293 parts including 33 jewels
– 52 hours power reserve

Pros
Most perpetual calendar complications make the watch face appear cluttered. Excessive sub-dials and unnecessary moon-phase complications can look too busy and sometimes even illegible. The Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar maintains a clean, sleek design without sacrificing function. The perpetual calendar will automatically keep track of the date and will not need adjusting for over a century.

Cons
For some, the appeal of the perpetual calendar complication may not be appealing enough. Though it’s mechanically interesting that perpetual calendars automatically adjust and account for varying days and leap years, it may not be useful enough. Some people don’t mind adjusting their watches and would rather opt for a more basic timepiece.

If you’re looking to upgrade from your basic watch to a more multifunctional timepiece, or if you’re already an admirer of the perpetual calendar, the Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Watch W1556218 is an excellent choice. Even if you’re not particularly interested in the extra features, you’ll be drawn to the beautiful design, intricate detail and exceptional engineering of this masterful timepiece.

 

Cartier Ballon Bleu Automatic Women’s Watch WE902048

Written by: Krystal Esquillo

 

The Ballon Bleu de Cartier Watch WE902048 proves that there’s no ignoring a diamond, especially when it is elegantly incorporated within a superior, luxury timepiece.

Whether you’re out for the night or celebrating a special occasion, this accessory will be gleaming. The entire 18-carat white gold watch is coated in rhodium, a precious metal in the platinum group noted for its silvery-white appearance. This reflective, hypoallergenic metal is becoming an increasingly popular choice for jewelry plating due to its ability to give white gold, silver and platinum a more brilliant finish.

Cartier’s Ballon Bleu collection has an immediately recognizable look, its name a reflection of the watch’s visual weightlessness. Rounded on both sides, the pebble-like case appears to hover above the wrist. The crown’s deep blue sapphire cabochon also tricks the eye, almost floating within the protective bubble created by the rhodiumized white gold arch.

A sea of diamonds sparkle on the dial, slightly magnified under the rounded sapphire crystal. The absence of hour markers ensures the focus remains on the brilliant-cut diamonds. No Roman or Arabic numerals compete with the dazzling display—only the Cartier logo and trademark blue, sword-shaped hands stand out against the silver-white field.

Specifications
– 33 mm in diameter, 9.96 mm thickness
– Dial and bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds
– 18-carat rhodiumized white gold case
– 18-carat rhodiumized white gold bracelet with hidden folding clasp
– Blue sapphire cabochon set in fluted, 18-carat rhodiumized white gold crown
– Sapphire crystal
– Self-winding caliber Cartier 076 mechanical movement
– Water resistant to 30 meters

Pros
The beauty and elegance of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier WE902048 is undeniable. Minimal additional features enable the diamonds to stand out on their own in a simple, yet exquisite way. The status and sophistication of this timepiece make it a great accessory for special evenings and celebrations—and a great gift for that special someone.

Cons
Though many women appreciate diamonds, this style may be overly-extravagant for some. Perhaps another Cartier design with just a diamond-set bezel would be sufficient. Also, the Cartier caliber 076 is an automatic movement, so if it’s not worn daily, it will require frequent winding. Many women do not wear diamond-accented jewelry every day, so that factor may be a deterrent.

If you want an accessory that makes a statement every time it’s worn, the diamond-paved, radiant Ballon Bleu de Cartier Women’s Watch WE902048 is the right decision.

 

Cartier Pasha Flying Tourbillon Skeleton Watch W3030021

Written by: Krystal Esquillo

Celebrate excellence in craftsmanship with the limited edition Cartier Pasha Flying Tourbillon Skeleton Watch W3030021. Its superior quality is prominently displayed, making this an ideal watch for horological aficionados or anyone who appreciates truly fine watchmaking.

There are so many features that make the Pasha Flying Tourbillon Skeleton a distinctive timepiece. Set in a 42 mm, 18-carat white gold case, the watch’s skeleton movement captures the attention that is usually bestowed upon dials and cases. And with the exceptional degree of craftsmanship exhibited in this watch, the movement should rightly be the main attraction. The Tourbillon complication in the watch ensures greater accuracy in timekeeping, countering the effect of gravity that can interfere with a watch’s precision. Another- and actually the most important- indication of quality in this timepiece is the Geneva Seal. A symbol of superior quality and perfection, the Geneva Seal certification ensures that the movement has met high standards and is recognized for its excellence in quality.

Visually, Cartier has created a striking display. In addition to highlighting the masterful movement, the skeletonized bridges create an open, light watch that perfectly balances space and substance. Pasha models forego the Roman numerals typically used by Cartier for large, stylish Arabic numerals that—though less iconic—are still quite distinctive. Characteristic Cartier style is still present in the blued-steel hands, black alligator-skin strap and canteen crown set with a sapphire cabochon.

 

Specifications
– 42 mm in diameter, 5.48 mm thickness
– 18-carat white gold case
– Alligator-skin strap
– 18-carat white gold deployant buckle (double adjustable)
– Sapphire cabochon set in a fluted 18-carat white gold crown
– Sapphire crystal
– Manual-wind caliber 9457 MC movement certified with Geneva Seal
– Individually numbered edition, limited to 100 timepieces
– Water resistant to 30 meters
– 175 parts including 19 jewels
– 50 hours power reserve

 

Pros
There is no question that the Cartier Pasha Flying Tourbillon Skeleton watch represents high-end luxury and the highest quality in manufacturing. With only 100 timepieces made, you know that you’re purchasing a special, rare watch that everyone will admire.

Cons
At $114,000, this wristwatch may not be within a lot of people’s price range. If the exclusivity and mechanics of the watch aren’t particularly intriguing, it might be a better decision to purchase a different Pasha model. The cases and crowns will be similarly designed, and the prices might agree with more wallets.

This is a beautifully designed timepiece that represents the finest of watch-making traditions. If you value superior quality and want your timepiece to literally symbolize perfection, the Cartier Pasha Flying Tourbillon Skeleton Watch W3030021 (available here) is definitely the right choice.