ROGER DUBUIS QUATUOR

Written by K. Amanuel

 

Roger Dubuis introduced the “Quatuor” at SIHH 2013. The Roger Dubuis Quatuor comes in limited edition of two models. One model is the 18k red gold and comes in limited 88 pieces, while the silicon model comes in just three pieces. The red gold model is retailed around 350k Swiss Francs, while the extremely light silicon model is retailed around 1 million Swiss Francs.

 

 

The Roger Dubuis Quatuor comes in a thick 48 millimeter wide Roger Dubuis Excalibur case. The case houses caliber RD101 movement, which is designed by Roger Dubuis designer Gregory Bruttin. This complex movement has 600 parts and took many hours to assemble. The movement’s balances are paired (2 x 2) and positioned at 90 degree angles to one another and linked by differentials. Working in pairs, the escapements allow for immediate compensation for the rate variations due to changes in position. The balance add up to 16 oscillations per second.

 

Tech Specification from Roger Dubuis Quatuor:

Excalibur Quatuor in Silicon
Case: 48 mm, silicon
Dial: Charcoal grey interior flange, white minute-circle transfers, charcoal grey engraved Roger Dubuis and Poinçon de Genève inscriptions, rhodium power-reserve indicator, black DLC hours and minutes hands, charcoal grey circular satin-finish exterior flange, black DLC appliques
Water resistance: 3 BAR (30 m)
Strap: Black, genuine alligator, hand-stitched
Clasp: Silicon adjustable folding buckle
Movement: Hand-wound movement, RD101
Hand-wound mechanical movement, 16 ¾’’, 113 jewels, finely adjusted in five positions, rhodium-plated, circulargrained motif. Stamped with the Poinçon de Genève (certification in process)
Specific features: Hours, minutes, 5 differentials, 4 balance wheels, power reserve indicator.
Number of parts: 590
Height: 10.60 mm
Frequency: 4×4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Power reserve: 40 hours
Production: 3 pieces


Excalibur Quatuor in pink gold
Case: 48 mm, pink gold
Dial: Charcoal grey interior flange, white minute-circle transfers, Charcoal grey engraved Roger Dubuis and Poinçon de Genève inscriptions, pink gold power-reserve indicator, pink gold hours and minutes hands, Charcoal grey circular satin-finish exterior flange, pink gold appliques
Water resistance: 3 BAR (30 m)
Strap: Brown, genuine alligator, hand-stitched
Clasp: Pink gold adjustable folding buckle
Movement: Hand-wound movement, RD101
Hand-wound mechanical movement, 16 ¾’’, 113 jewels, finely adjusted in five positions, rhodium-plated, circulargrained motif. Stamped with the Poinçon de Genève (certification in process)
Specific features: Hours, minutes, 5 differentials, 4 Balance wheels, Power reserve indicator.
Number of parts: 590
Height: 10.60 mm
Frequency: 4×4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Power reserve: 40 hours
Production: 88 pieces

 

 

Hot Horology: Chronopassion’s Perrelet Puts New Spin on a Time-Honored Tradition

Salacious watches (often called conversation pieces) have been around for hundreds of years, but rarely are brand-name luxury watches associated with the manga-style nudity so often found in Japanese anime films and cartoons. Distinguished by its stylistic portrayal of characters with enormous eyes, angular coifs and hypersexual buxom beauties in clothing that barely fulfills its purpose, anime has grown increasingly popular in the Western Hemisphere over the last two decades.

Enter the Perrelet Turbine Erotic Limited Edition watch. Only 704 copies are being made of this daring conversation piece – 176 each of four different designs. (Get ‘em while they’re “hot,” guys!)

The anime subgenre is no longer just for fantasy geeks; and hentai, as erotic anime is called in the west, has become a popular form of pornography. Comic books, movies, video games, CD-ROMs and even coffee table books full of hentai images are often viewed as far more socially acceptable than the magazines and movies that your brother used to hide under his bed. Often perceived as dwelling on fetishes that real life would be hard-pressed to provide – gigantic breasts, androgynous or youthful characters and even monsters, for instance – it is interesting to note that, in Japan, the word hentai is actually slang for “weirdo” or “pervert.”

The prurient scenes on the Perrelet Erotic range from merely titillating to somewhat explicit and are actually pretty mild when compared with the wide-ranging genre of hentai anime. Painted in black and white, with splashes of red, onto the surface of the sub-dial, they are not so overt that they can’t be worn in conservative company – the Perrelet 12-blade turbine wheel covers most of the saucy spectacle at any give time. But, set that dial to spinning fast (with, um, a few quick flicks of the wrist), and out come the mischievous little nymphettes to play. (Of seven characters in four designs, six are female.)

Perrelet Turbine Erotic - Design #1
The Perrelet Turbine Erotic (This is the mildest of the four designs.)

The watches, on sale at Chronopassion Paris, were meant as a playful stab at an old tradition and the Turbine Erotic been appreciated by critics as just that.

With a face that’s forty-four millimeters wide and made of titanium or black-coated steel, the Turbine Erotic has mechanical self-winding P-181 movement and the exclusive Perrelet double rotor. The strap is black rubber with a steel folding clasp and the whole thing is water resistant up to 50 meters, making it suitable for wearing into the hot tub or in the shower.

 

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Breaking The Rules: New Campaign Promise From Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piaget New 2012 Ad Campaign
“To break the rules, you must first master them.”  This little bon mot epitomizes a well-known fact among adepts and innovators in any creative field, from writing to architectural design, fashion and even horticulture. First you must understand implicitly how things work, for then – and only then – can you begin to truly play. Audemars Piguet, the esteemed makers of sumptuous Swiss luxury watches established over a century ago, understands this concept so well that they have adopted the phrase as the cornerstone of their new 2012 ad campaign.
“Over the years we have demonstrated our mastery of the art of haute horology and yet Audemars Piguet has also always been a beacon of innovation and creativity that dares to break new grounds,” said CEO Philippe Merk, explaining the choice. “While the watches that we make are expressions of our respect for the traditions of hand crafted timepieces and while we celebrate the fact that we are the one of the few major Swiss brands still in the hands of the descendants of the original founding families, we are also a modern, progressive company famous for our innovations in technology, the daring use of new materials and bold designs.”
The new campaign was created by Lowe Superculture in London and has two complimentary components: one intended to highlight the technical and design aspects of the watches themselves and the other with a focus on paying homage to the origins and history of the brand itself.
To capture the latter idea, British landscape photographer Dan Holdsworth spent several weeks approximately five and a half miles southeast of Paris, photographing the Swiss landscape near the longtime home of Audemars. So committed are they to this idea that the name of Le Brassus village, in the Vallée de Joux in western Switzerland, has even taken the place of the familiar line in their brand logo: “Le maître de l’horlogerie depuis 1875.”

As for design and innovation, renowned still life photographer, Richard Foster, was brought in to capture various components of the timepieces themselves and visualize the concept of the new tagline. This is accomplished primarily through close-up shots paired with a brief explanation.
The new ad campaign has gone hand in hand with the launch of two new models: the Millenary 4101 and the new Royal Oak. Now in its fortieth year of production, the new Royal Oak – 41mm diameter, stainless steel, blue face – is a cleaner variation on a watch that has seen many interpretations.
Royal Oak Collection - Now and Then
It’s always fun to see an old company roll out a new ad campaign, and it’s particularly nice when a company you like and respect does it well. Cheers to breaking the rules… and doing it right.

Gucci Goes To The Grammys

The 54th Grammy Awards ceremony held Sunday, February 2 at the Staples Center in Los Angeles to once again honor outstanding achievements by music industry professionals. Performances, parties, publicity and promotions will undoubtedly abound in the California performing arts mecca this weekend. In its second year partnering up with the National Academy of Recording Arts and Sciences (aka The Recording Academy) even the Gucci fashion house has contributed to the hype with a third addition to its I-Gucci GRAMMY® collection.

Designed by Gucci Creative Director, Frida Giannini, the watch is a variation on the I-Gucci XXL Sport. Proceeds will go toward the preservation and restoration program of music milestones at The Grammy Museum, established in 2008, an interactive and education museum dedicated to the history of the Grammy Awards and its winners.

Gucci Timepieces and Jewelry signed a three-year collaboration agreement with The Recording Academy in September 2010 and have produced three signature timepieces since: the I-Gucci GRAMMY in yellow gold PVD, the I-Gucci Latin Grammy in pink gold PVD and the latest, the I-Gucci Grammy Museum.

It is easy to see why this collaboration works. Giannini herself colluded with Jay-Z last year before the Grammys to host a star-studded brunch celebrating both the music and the Gucci collection associated with the ceremonies. “As a designer,” she said. “I always say I find an incredible inspiration from musicians who are in the music industry. Fashion and music, they have always been together because I think we are looking to musicians and musicians are looking to fashion.”

Gucci, a well-established fashion icon with a history of unifying the complimentary natures of haute couture and everyday street fashion – especially for industry superstars such as Rihanna, Mary J. Blige and Lenny Kravitz –  is perfectly positioned to embody this inevitable dovetailing of high fashion and popular culture. As Madonna sang at the SuperBowl earlier this month, “Music makes the people come together.”

Selling for $1,395 online, it’s unlikely that this watch will end up on the arm of your typical ‘99 percent’ street fashionista, but it is symbolic of a partnership that will endure for as long as fashion and talented musicians are a celebrated part of popular culture.

With a large 49mm face, the dial is black and yellow and the rubber strap is covered in soft patent calf leather imprinted with the Grammy gramophone. It has a digital, dual time-zone display, including date and alarm. It comes with dual chronograph movement and all the bells and whistles – even a sailing option for timing regattas. No diamonds or gems for this simple piece, however; it could easily be worn with a fur coat, a leather jacket, a tailored suit or a pair a thrashed jeans.

The I-Gucci Grammy Museum Watch

Blancpain Reveals Newest Watch on L-evolution Line

Blancpain Tourbillion Grande Date Watch Face
Face of the Blancpain L-evolution Tourbillion Grande Date

Blancpain reveals the newest edition to their stellar collection of watches, the L-evolution Tourbillion Grande Date Réserve de Marche sur Masse Oscillante.

The latest edition in the L-evolution collection by Blancpain, the Tourbillion Grande Data offers a new feature to the line. The Grande Date will feature a power reserve indicator not on the dial as normally the case in luxury watches, but on a subdial that will be displayed opposite the face of the watch. This allows for more room on the dial, which will allow for more functionality or simply for the dial to be more pleasing to the eye.

This breakthrough in luxury watches lets the owner know whether or not the watch needs to be wound at the most crucial times; before it is put on and after it is taken off. The power reserve is often on the main dial because it needs to be attached to two components near the main dial to know how much life is left in the main spring. What Blancpain has done is put the power reserve indicator on an oscillating weight, which makes it interdependent from the rest of the watch. Therefore, the power reserve dial can be displayed on the bottom of the dial rather than taking up space on the face of the dial.

The watch also comes with a seven day reserve of power before it needs to be wound. The movement of the watches intricate components can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. The watch also includes the Blancpain “flying” tourbillion to keep the watch accurate throughout the entirety of ownership and a double-disc large date mechanism.

Blancpain L-evolution Tourbillion Grande Date
The power reserve on Blancpain Tourbillion Grande Date

The watch is available in a red gold version or white. The L-evolution Tourbillion Grande Date offers the well know dial from the L-evolution collection, matching the color of the watch casing. The rubber-lined alligator leather strap completes the magnificent luxury watch and lets the owner know that comfort and performance were at the forefront of the watchmakers mind when the Tourbillion Grande Date was conceived.

This innovation allows for more functions or more room for great looking dials which Blancpain is known for. The L-evolution watches are top tier in luxury and the new power reserve indicator will only make them better. Anyone would be lucky enough to own such a fine timepiece.