Bremont’s U-2 Blue and ALT1-B2 (GMT) Chronograph

Written by: K. Amanuel

 

The British watchmaker, Bremont, recently announced the addition of two new watches to its collection, the U-2 Blue and the ALT1-B2 (GMT) Chronograph. The U-2 Blue is part of their U-2 collection that was originally released in 2010 and is a blue-barrelled and blue-faced Chronometer. The U-2 Blue will be available in late May and is priced at $5450.

Technical Specification

Movement:

Modified calibre 13 1/4” BE-36AE automatic chronometer, 25 jewels, glucydur balance.

Anachron balance spring, Nivaflex 1 mainspring, 28,800 bph, 38 hour power reserve, Bremont moulded and skeletised decorated rotor.

Function:

Hour/minute/second, date and day at 3H.

Case:

Hardened stainless steel Trip-Tick case construction with sapphire bi-directional rotating bezel. Case diameter 43mm, lug width 22mm. Protective patented anti-shock movement mount.

Case back:

Stainless steel with integrated flat crystal, 5 stainless steel screws with polished heads.

Bezel:

Patented inner bi-directional Roto-Click bezel. Operated by crown at 4H

Dial:

Metal dial, SuperLumiNova coated numerals and hands

Crystal:

Domed anti-reflective, scratch resistant sapphire crystal

Water Resistance:

Water resistant to 10 ATM, 100 metres.

Strap/Bracelet:

Calf-skin leather strap and NATO military nylon strap

The second watch Bremont introduced is the ALT-B2 (GMT Chronograph), which is designed in collaboration with B2 “Stealth Bomber” Squadron, the long-range heavy ‘flying wing’ aircraft bomber. Bremont was approached to design a watch that was unique to B2 Squadron. Bremont Co-Founder Nick English stated, “Working on this project with the B2 crew could not have been more interesting, they knew exactly what they were trying to achieve which was great.” The watch will not be available publicly but will also be available in May and is priced at $6395.

Technical Specification
Movement:
Modified calibre 13 1/4” BE-54AE automatic chronometer, 25 jewels, Glucydur balance,Anachron balance spring, Nivaflex 1 mainspring, 28,800bph, 42 hour power reserve,Bremont moulded and skeletonised decorated DLC coated rotor
Functions:
Hour and Minute, Second counter at 9H, date at 3H Chronograph with Seconds, 30 minutesand 12 hours 24H UTC hand
Case:
Hardened stainless steel DLC coated made with Trip-Tick® construction. Case diameter43mm, case thickness 16mm, lug width 22mm
Case back:
Hardened stainless steel DLC coated with integrated flat crystal, 5 stainless steel screws withpolished heads. Bremont moulded and skeletonised decorated DLC coated rotor
Bezel:
Rotating inner bezel operated by crown at 8H
Dial:
Black metal dial with Super-LumiNova coated hands and numerals
Crystal:
Domed anti-reflective, scratch resistant sapphire crystal
Water resistance: Water resistant to 10 ATM, 100 metres
Strap/Bracelet:
The watch comes on a calf-skin leather strap and a NATO style strap. A metal DLC coated steel bracelet is also available for an additional cost

Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk Brazil

Written by: K. Amanuel

 

Swiss watch manufacturer Girard-Perregaux recently unveiled a limited edition of its Chrono Hawk model called Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk Brazil. The Chrono Hawk, which comes in two different models – the Sea and Chrono, is a redesigned model of an earlier Sea Hawk collection by Girard-Perregaux. This new watch was created in partnership with the Instituto Tenis. The Instituto Tenis is a non-profit organization that supports the development of tennis in Brazil. The partnership supports the young Brazilian talents in Miami. The Chrono Hawk Brazil was unveiled in an exclusive event, “Um Sonho Intenso, Um Raio Vivido,” in Miami where several Brazilian stars were in attendance. There is a limited edition of 25 pieces of this watch and they are each priced at $14,850.

 

The Chrono Hawk Brazil is the latest sport watch collection from Girard-Perregaux. This colorful watch comes in a 44 mm steel case that features the Brazilian colors of green and yellow. Inside the case is Girard-Perregaux’s automatic mechanical caliber 3300. This automatic winding movement can be seen and appreciated through the sapphire case-back. The dial, which features the vibrant colors, has two chronograph counters opposite from each other at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions. The luminescent hour and minute hands as well as the minute and hour markers are easily legible. There is a date window located at 6 o’clock as well.

Technical Specifics of the Chrono Hawk 

Material: Steel
Dimensions / Diameter: 44.00 mm
Height: 15.45 mm
Case-back: Sapphire crystal, secured by 6 screws
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Movement: Automatic
Caliber: 13”
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/hr – (4 Hz)
Jewels: 61
Power reserve: 46 hours
Functions: Hour, minute, date, small second, chronograph

There is mutual respect between Girard-Perregaux and Instituto Tenis. According to Michele Sofisti, CEO of Sowind Group (Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard), “Girard-Perregaux is dedicated to nurturing talent. Similar to the young watchmakers of our Manufacture, these young athletes are the present and the future of the sport and a great example of excellence achieved through hard work and dedication”. Spokeperson for Instituto Tenis, Cristaino Borrelli said, “We are very thankful that Instituto Tênis had the opportunity to associate with Girard-Perregaux for this evening celebrating Brazil’s young talented athletes. The resources that we were able to raise during the event will go straight to our operations as we continue to move into 2013. It will certainly help us achieve our goals for this year”.

 

 

ROGER DUBUIS QUATUOR

Written by K. Amanuel

 

Roger Dubuis introduced the “Quatuor” at SIHH 2013. The Roger Dubuis Quatuor comes in limited edition of two models. One model is the 18k red gold and comes in limited 88 pieces, while the silicon model comes in just three pieces. The red gold model is retailed around 350k Swiss Francs, while the extremely light silicon model is retailed around 1 million Swiss Francs.

 

 

The Roger Dubuis Quatuor comes in a thick 48 millimeter wide Roger Dubuis Excalibur case. The case houses caliber RD101 movement, which is designed by Roger Dubuis designer Gregory Bruttin. This complex movement has 600 parts and took many hours to assemble. The movement’s balances are paired (2 x 2) and positioned at 90 degree angles to one another and linked by differentials. Working in pairs, the escapements allow for immediate compensation for the rate variations due to changes in position. The balance add up to 16 oscillations per second.

 

Tech Specification from Roger Dubuis Quatuor:

Excalibur Quatuor in Silicon
Case: 48 mm, silicon
Dial: Charcoal grey interior flange, white minute-circle transfers, charcoal grey engraved Roger Dubuis and Poinçon de Genève inscriptions, rhodium power-reserve indicator, black DLC hours and minutes hands, charcoal grey circular satin-finish exterior flange, black DLC appliques
Water resistance: 3 BAR (30 m)
Strap: Black, genuine alligator, hand-stitched
Clasp: Silicon adjustable folding buckle
Movement: Hand-wound movement, RD101
Hand-wound mechanical movement, 16 ¾’’, 113 jewels, finely adjusted in five positions, rhodium-plated, circulargrained motif. Stamped with the Poinçon de Genève (certification in process)
Specific features: Hours, minutes, 5 differentials, 4 balance wheels, power reserve indicator.
Number of parts: 590
Height: 10.60 mm
Frequency: 4×4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Power reserve: 40 hours
Production: 3 pieces


Excalibur Quatuor in pink gold
Case: 48 mm, pink gold
Dial: Charcoal grey interior flange, white minute-circle transfers, Charcoal grey engraved Roger Dubuis and Poinçon de Genève inscriptions, pink gold power-reserve indicator, pink gold hours and minutes hands, Charcoal grey circular satin-finish exterior flange, pink gold appliques
Water resistance: 3 BAR (30 m)
Strap: Brown, genuine alligator, hand-stitched
Clasp: Pink gold adjustable folding buckle
Movement: Hand-wound movement, RD101
Hand-wound mechanical movement, 16 ¾’’, 113 jewels, finely adjusted in five positions, rhodium-plated, circulargrained motif. Stamped with the Poinçon de Genève (certification in process)
Specific features: Hours, minutes, 5 differentials, 4 Balance wheels, Power reserve indicator.
Number of parts: 590
Height: 10.60 mm
Frequency: 4×4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Power reserve: 40 hours
Production: 88 pieces

 

 

Breva Genie 01 – Tell Weather As Well As Time

Written by: K. Amanuel

Vincent Dupontreué recently introduced his new independent watch brand called “Breva.” The brand’s first watch is the Genie 01, which is part watch and part barometer-altimeter. This is the first wristwatch that features an altimeter and barometer for forecasting the weather. The watch was constructed by Jean-Francois Mojon of Chronode, and he has constructed an unusual and complicated but interesting watch.
The Breva Genie 01 comes in a 44.7 mm wide by 15.6 mm high case that is made of white or pink gold. Both models are limited to 55 pieces. The fully mechanical movement that powers this watch can be seen through the sapphire crystal display back. A circular scale is engraved around the perimeter of the case-back and provides correlation between altitude and air pressure. Three crowns on the case allow setting of the movement. The crown at the 2 o’clock on the top right has a knurled exterior ring that adjust the barometric pressure scale and the inner pusher adjusts the altitude indication. The crown at the 9 o’clock on the left adjusts the time and winds the watch. The crown located at the 4 o’clock has a knurled locking ring that rotates to lock or unlock an air valve. Above the crown is a red indicator on the dial that reads “Sealed” when valve is unlocked and air is allowed in.
The dial of the Breva Genie 01 is quite busy but has easily readable indicators for all its functions. The hours and minutes are shown on a semi-transparent sapphire subdial that is located at the 8 o’clock position. The small seconds are displayed at the 12 o’clock. A 65-hour power reserve indicator at the 4 o’clock position features an engraved compass rosse in the cap of the mainspring barrel, which rotates when winding the movement. It allows one to tell remaining power in the mainspring of the fully mechanical movement.
Aside from telling the time, the dial also allows wearer to tell altitude and forecast the weather. Between the 5 o’clock and 6 o’clock is an anaerobic capsule that measures air pressure. Air pressure inside the movement needs to be equalized with outside air using the valve at 4 o’clock before barometer can be used. The barometer’s weather forecast is displayed on a semi-transparent subdial at the 2 o’clock position.
As mentioned above, the Breva Genie 01 comes in two models: white gold and 4N pink gold. The white gold is priced at CHF 150,000 and the pink gold for CHF 145,000.

IWC Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance

IWC unveiled a new timepiece to mark its cooperation with the Mercedes Amgpetronas Formula One Team. This watch, selected by NBA star Carmelo Anthony, is the IWC Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance. This model will be available in limited edition of only 100 pieces.

The Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance comes in a carbon case that measures 46 millimeters in diameter. The middle part of the case is held together by screws and is manufactured using fibre matting, which is soaked in epoxy resin and shaped in a desired form before being heated at high temperature and pressure. This is the same technique used in monocoque of a racing car. To keep with the theme of motor-sports, IWC designers have used ceramic for the screw heads, the crown and crown protection. The screws and case-back ring are made of titanium. The watch comes with a black rubber strap with stamped calfskin inlay and titanium pin buckle. The stitches on the strap are either yellow or red nylon reminiscent of the stripes on the walls of the soft slick tires.

Inside the watch is the heart of the watch, which is the Calibre 80110 mechanical movement. This IWC-manufactured 80110-calibre movement has 44 hour power reserve and integrated shock-absorption system. The shock-absorption system allows the wearer to be in situations of extreme vibrations without affecting the watch.

The dial of this Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance is also made of carbon fiber. While carbon is only one-fifth the weight of steel, it does not have as much resistance to scratching. The black dial features under and over technique to create webbed design pattern and gives an authentic Formula One look. The dial has an impressive three-dimension look. A date window is visible at the 3 o’clock position. The hours and minutes markers as well as the hour and minute hands are luminescent and easy to read.

Technical Specifics of IWC Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance

  • Mechanical movement – Calibre 80110
  • Pellaton automatic winding
  • 44-hour power reserve when fully wound
  • Jewels – 28
  • Integrated shock-absorption system
  • Date display with crown-activated rapid advance
  • Central hacking seconds
  • Screw-in crown
  • Sapphire glass, flat, antireflective coating on both sides
  • See-through sapphire-glass back
  • Water-resistant 12 bar
  • Case height 14.5 mm
  • Case Diameter 46 mm
  • Bracelet Material – black rubber strap with stamped calfskin inlay
  • Limited edition of 100 watches each, once with yellow and once with red nylon threads
  • Price – $26,400